Chasing Van Gogh and Escaping 40
In May I took myself off on a wee arty adventure to France - to gently sidestep the reality of turning 40. No big party, no fuss. Just me, my backpack, and a plan to follow in Vincent Van Gogh’s footsteps.
Auvers-sur-Oise train station
I landed in Paris early, grabbed a strong coffee and the most delicious lemon tart I’ve ever tasted in my life, then hopped straight on a train to Auvers-sur-Oise - the village where Vincent spent the final chapter of his life. I’d already made the pilgrimage to Arles and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence in the South of France a couple of years ago, so this felt like the natural next step. The final piece of Vincent’s story.
It was one of the most wholesome, heartfelt days I’ve experienced in quite a while. I was so deep in thought, the reality of my milestone birthday was easily forgotten.
The incredibly tranquil Auvers-sur-Oise
I stood in Vincent’s tiny attic room at the Ravoux Inn - the place where he lived, painted, and ultimately passed away. I also visited Dr Gachet’s house, wandered the same streets Vincent painted, and paid my respects at the cemetery where he is buried beside his brother Theo. Theo was not only Vincent’s closest friend but also his most loyal supporter.
Vincent Van Gogh and his brother Theo’s graves - Auvers-sur-Oise Cemetery
One of the most powerful moments was standing on the site depicted in Wheatfield with Crows - a painting that’s always resonated with me. Not far from that spot is the field where Vincent took his own life. As I stood there, a large dark cloud drifted overhead, almost as if on cue.
Site of “Wheatfield With Crows” painting - Auvers-sur-Oise
There was some lightness too - like unexpectedly finding an abandoned train transformed into a second-hand bookshop. I could of spent hours there, flicking through forgotten pages and smelling the dust and ink. I’m one of those people that love the smell of an old book, the older the better! There’s probably a psychology behind that ….
La Caverne aux Livres - Abandoned train transformed into a bookstore
Vincent was an avid letter writer, penning more than 2000 during his lifetime, many of which have been carefully preserved. Most were to his brother Theo, but he also kept in touch with his artists friends, including Paul Gauguin and Emile Bernard.
As I walked through the peaceful village, one particular quote kept playing over in my mind, taken from a letter Vincent wrote to Theo:
“The human heart is like the sea, there are storms, there are tides, and in the depths, there are also pearls.”
-Vincent Van Gogh
I honestly can’t recommend Vincent’s letters enough - they are artworks in their own right. Each one reads like a fragment of lived philosophy, offering a deeply personal insight into his inner world. He wrote candidly on subjects as varied as art, faith, literature, money, family, and love.
Vincent’s letters also delve into some deeply existentialist questions - questions of purpose, suffering, beauty, and the role of the artist in society. In many ways, his reflections feel no less urgent or resonant today than they did in his own time.
To explore Vincent’s letters for yourself, you can read all the surviving correspondence - translated into English for free via the Van Gogh The Letters website.
